Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (Dress, Body, by Eugenia Paulicelli

By Eugenia Paulicelli

Prada, Gucci, Max Mara: haute couture is synonymous with luxurious, glamor, excitement, and Italy. but Italian type additionally has a dismal historical past that has no longer formerly been explored. The Fascism of 1930's Italy ruled greater than simply politics--it spilled over into modes of costume. type below Fascism is the 1st e-book to think about this hyperlink intimately. model usually features as a tacit technique of creating a social assertion, yet lower than Mussolini it vividly mirrored political tyranny. Paulicelli explores the delicate but sinister alterations to the likely risk free practices of daily costume and indicates why they have been this type of drawback for the nation. Importantly, she additionally demonstrates how those advancements impacted at the worldwide dominance of Italian style at the present time. This interesting ebook comprises interviews with significant designers, comparable to Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new mild at the advanced dating among sort and politics.

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Additional info for Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (Dress, Body, Culture)

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Italian creativity in design and color was marketed abroad –26– Fashion, Gender and Power in Interwar Italy after World War II, but had been created much earlier, its premises already in place in the pre-war years. An analysis of the way fascism treated fashion enables us to gauge the apparent contradictory faces of fascist ideology and practices, caught between two opposing desires, that of tradition and that of modernism. These two opposing forces, however, are not only typical of fascist ideology and propaganda.

Interestingly, these texts did little to conform to the genre of the “edifying short story with a moral” that served a middle-class audience and were devoid of any pretence at emancipation or thoughtful reflection on women’s roles in everyday life in the family and society. By not succumbing to the literary conventions of the time and taking a more ambitious task, these short stories set themselves the task of valorizing women and their work in society, regardless of class or ideology. –38– Fashion, Gender and Power in Interwar Italy In these magazines, we find a growing number of articles on sport and outdoor activities, especially during fascism, illustrated by women dressed in casual clothes and sportswear.

An analysis of the way fascism treated fashion enables us to gauge the apparent contradictory faces of fascist ideology and practices, caught between two opposing desires, that of tradition and that of modernism. These two opposing forces, however, are not only typical of fascist ideology and propaganda. Indeed the regime, exploited to its own ends and in order to increase its popularity, the extreme cultural and economic diversity of a modern northern Italy and a peasant traditional south. Still today, the intermingling of the twin image of the Armani suit and homemade pasta characterizes the picture of Italy that legions of foreign visitors and buyers have.

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